Gramercy Tavern appeared on the cover of New York Magazine the day we opened, and it was five deep at the bar with people who were not necessarily here to dine. They just wanted to kinda sniff out the hot, new restaurant.

I was a club kid. I was on the cover of 'New York' magazine and discovered like that.

During one of his uncannily well-timed impromptu visits to my restaurant, Union Square Cafe, Pat Cetta taught me how to manage people. Pat was the owner of a storied New York City steakhouse called Sparks, and by that time, he was an old pro at running a fine restaurant.

The city finds herself, in mid-century, almost at the end of her land resources, ... the end now seems not too far - somewhere around 1975, or, at most optimistic measures, the year 2000.

In one respect, it's easier to open a restaurant in New York because you get more media attention than anywhere else. Almost everyone will try a new place once, irrespective of the reviews, because it's a spectator sport.

I wanted to be a New York City firefighter. I didn't make it in, though.