I saw a few waves come up just before our heat right near the pier. So I figured if I'm going to lose, I'm going to sit right there. Then I figured either go big, or go home.

If you see the current, you can follow it out and you won't even get your hair wet. It sucks you right out to see and you are right in the line-up.

It was insane. To have some great local surfers out there with you made it even better.

Then the next thing you know, they're right in your face. That's part of what they do.

It's tough for the team right now, because we aren't quite there yet - but we'll be there soon. We're really starting to come together as a team.

I have a friend who is in Iraq right now and is doing a lot of good over there, restoring schools and helping democracy in a way. Do I agree with the administration and their intentions behind this war? I don't know; I don't think so. But I can't do anything but support wholeheartedly, and actually look up to, these soldiers in a way that I never did before I made this movie.