I spent many years not knowing where my dad was... Not knowing if my dad was alive, even. He turned up when I was 16 out of the blue.

I'm not a macho guy.

Now think about crawling into a burning house not knowing where you're going, you don't know how long it's been burning or if the floor is about to collapse under you. There's a lot of scary things that go through our minds.

I spent the first 25 years of my life not knowing what I wanted to do.

Be Yourself, Don't take anyone's s**t and never let them take you alive..."

He was attracted to this edge of unknowing, of hope and fear, he instinctively knew that surfing it was precondition for growth and transformation. And for feeling alive. Waking up and going out into the world not knowing what each day would hold, taking life as it comes, relinquishing any illusion of control. That's fresh, that's a good morning!