When I got on stage, I would have a rush of adrenaline; everybody gets it. Normally after the first night it becomes more controllable, and as long as I could ride the wave, I was still in charge.

It was the scariest wave that I had ever ridden, but it was a huge adrenaline rush. I was scared, but I was totally into it. The best part of the whole experience was I knew that I was in total control. All the years of my surfing experience came right to my head and were the center of my attention. I dropped in and drove down the line, and it was the fastest I've ever gone on a surfboard.

Filming is quite exciting because every day is different, but it can involve long hours standing around in chilly locations. Theatre is a very different challenge because every night you're striving to keep it fresh, even though you might have been performing the same play for months.

I get so nervous before I go on stage that I can never eat very much, so I'm always completely starving afterwards and dying for a bowl of pasta.

Runway is like an adrenaline rush.

I think that as you get older, you become aware of everything that could go wrong.