I sometimes struggle, because my job is like the antithesis of what surfing is all about. Surfing's simple. It's real.

That's one thing about Hollywood. People don't always want what's real. People always want a little more. So for me, it's a compromise. Here you go, that hyper-reality.

Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave.

I got into retailing because I wanted a real job.

Sometimes the hurdles aren't really hurdles at all. They're welcome challenges, tests.

Surfing big waves is not an extreme sport to me. I fall off, tumble down, and come up. My heart's racing because I'm thinking I almost drowned, and I thank God I can breathe again, but I always think, 'What am I hitting?' Water.