Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave.

Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave.

The people I don't understand are atheists. I go surfing and snowboarding, and I'm always around nature. I look at everything and think, 'Who couldn't believe there's a God? Is all this a mistake?' It just blows me away.

I'm surfing the giant life wave.

I sometimes struggle, because my job is like the antithesis of what surfing is all about. Surfing's simple. It's real.

As a species, we've always been discoverers and adventurers, and space and the deep ocean are some of the last frontiers.